Simple and Easy Box Joint Jig

This is my box joint jig based off Woodfather's design which is used with a single rip blade. It has a pin that matches your blade's kerf and a set of spacers in a 1:1 ratio to the fingers of the box joint. You can easily change the size and spacing of the box joints by changing the width of the spacers. Want 3/8" fingers? Use 3/8" spacers. Want 8 mm fingers ... you know the drill. For simplicity I used 1/4" plywood for my spacers which lets me cut each finger in two passes using my 1/8" blade.

Mine follows the original plan closely with a couple of minor modifications. I added a tab to the back of the fence so it clips over the jig and stays in place on it's own. The tape acts as a spacer allowing the fence to slide freely.

I added edge banding to the fence where it rides along the jig. The mating face of the jig also has edge banding and both are waxed. The fence travels smoothly left and right.

The pin (pic above) is a screw 3.17 mm in diameter with the head removed. The kerf of my Freud rip blade is 3.19 mm. The resulting joints are snug but allow room for glue.

The block on the far right is glued in place and never changes. I used cyanoacrylate in case I ever need to remove it. Below you can see the edge banding along the top of the jig.

The spacers are held in place by a scrap of wood approximately the right length, then a small wedge is inserted to keep everything snug.

Mine is a wee bit taller and the sides come farther back. This allowed me to attach a handle. I tried first without a handle but my left hand kept searching for a hold. I find it more comfortable with a handle.

The strip of ply along the front of the fence (red arrow below) is only 3/4", not sure what I was thinking, but it will have to be replaced with a deeper version that will accommodate more than a couple pieces.

An unplanned change which didn't work out, are the runners being short in front (see above). The wood took a funny bow and were binding so I had to cut them down but now the jig wants to tip forward. Definitely leave them long in front. Adding the handle stopped the tipping so I'm not sure if I will bother replacing the runners.

Speed Square Miter Sled for Table Saw

A quick and easy sled modification for cutting 45° miters on the table saw. I trimmed a plastic speed square so it will lay flat and screwed it in place with the widest side toward the blade. The screws go through a scrap of wood which acts like a washer allowing the square to slide left and right. Very easy and very handy.

Dovetail Ratios

Dovetail Angles

Playing around with dovetail ratios. Three are common, plus phi (1:1.618) and pi (1:314) which I've never heard of anyone using but thought I would toss them in for fun.

If you are interested in the relative strength between dovetail angles, search the web for:  THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN DOVETAIL ANGLE AND JOINT STRENGTH - Notes from The Forest Products Research Laboratory tests (KS Walker) reported in Woodworker Magazine, January 1958.

To save you some reading I'll summarize the conclusions. In glued dovetail joints the angle made no significant difference. In unglued dovetails wider angles were stronger. The article claims that unglued dovetails were stronger because the joints could slip whereas glued dovetails the wood fibers separated. They tested hardwood and softwood, each from the same board. The softwood failed sooner in unglued joints because it more easily compressed and slipped free.

Making a Wood Carving or Marking Knife with Disposable Blade

Swann Morton scalpel blades have become popular for marking knives. They are a high quality, carbon steel, disposable blade available from the U.K. David Barron, among many others, uses them in his marking knives, epoxied solidly into the handle. The carbon steel blades are easy to sharpen and take a keen edge. I ordered some last fall and have considered several ways of making the blades replaceable.

Swann Morton 01 Scalpel

I started with a scrap of Spanish cedar. Cut a slot through the end deep enough for the blade. Drilled and countersunk a screw hole to retain the blade. Then sketched and cut out the handle shape. Full details are in the build video. My apologies for the lack of pictures but this was spontaneous and slotting, drilling, and sketching the handle blank was a less than a five minute minute job.

The blade is secured with pieces of walnut veneer that fit like splines in the kerf above and below the blade. As seen in the video, I did not adequately glue the veneer or didn't allow enough drying time (probably both), and the spline failed. On the second try I used cyanoacrylate glue which is holding up fine so far. There are stronger ways to secure the blade but I wanted to try this first as it's the easiest. If it fails again I will insert a brass pin above the blade. An alternative is an inner frame of metal with a cut out for the blade, then attached wood scales. I might do that in a future video.

I am not a carver and did not make this knife with carving in mind but wanted to see how well it might work for chip carving. The blade is very thin and sharp, and had no issues slicing through poplar. My skills are obviously non-existent and it would be interesting to have an experienced carver's opinion.

Most prefer single bevel blades for marking knives as you can hold the flat of the blade against a straight edge. These are double bevel blades but by holding them at a slight angle you can achieve the same accuracy.

Video

Blades are available from:

scalpelsandblades.co.uk

or

Echo Iron Mongery on ebay

I have no affiliation with either seller.

More pictures of shop made lathe tools

I get more questions about my carbide lathe tools than anything else, mostly about grinding, so here are more pictures of the business end.

The diamond tip is ground with a taper then flattens for the cutter. Nothing holds the carbide in place except friction and it hasn't budged. A few folks expressed concern because it isn't form fit like Easy Wood Tools but that isn't necessary for holding it in place.

I've had less success with the radius cutter and will eventually replace it with a round carbide. Radius cutters don't do anything the other shapes don't do better. I suggest that you use square bar for square, radius, and diamond cutters otherwise the tool tends to spin when using the corners. This cutter has several chips where catches have flung it against the tool rest.

The tapped hole goes completely through.

The grinding doesn't have to be pretty to be functional. Leave steel under the cutter for support then grind a relief matching the angle on the carbide.

Soon I will be making a new one with a square bar. I purchase my carbides from AZ Carbide, excellent prices and customer service along with fast shipping. I have no financial interest in the company and receive no compensation for recommending them.