tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-87524695086445128512024-03-06T15:02:24.428-05:00The Wood KnackWood Knackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12504530045704441678noreply@blogger.comBlogger90125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8752469508644512851.post-5025690832929246082020-01-23T02:44:00.002-05:002020-01-26T02:03:28.309-05:00Saw Blades for Box Joint Jig, 1/8" and 3mm<div class="bbp-post-content bbp-topic-content">
Many box joint jigs require a flat top blade that is 1/8". Here’s a list
of blades with a 1/8″ kerf and a flat grind. I recommend you double check the kerf size and grind before buying a
blade, don’t take my word on it. I do my best to verify info
but mistakes happen. Does not include blades from dado sets. <br />
<br />
<br />
<b><span style="color: #ff0526;"><u><span style="font-size: large;">1/8 Inch (.125″ or .126") Saw Blades for Box Joint Jigs </span></u></span></b><br />
<b><span style="color: #ff0526;"><br /></span></b>
<b>Forrest</b><br />
– some WWII have a flat top grind and some don’t, make sure you are getting the #1 grind (flat). <br />
<a href="https://www.sliversmill.com/product_485_10x40T_Custom_WW_II_1_Grind_for_SQUARE_Flat_Bottom_CUT_Box_.html" target="_blank">Forrest WW10401125</a>, 40T, .125″<br />
<br />
<b>CMT</b><br />
<a href="https://amzn.to/38DyhwF" target="_blank">201.024.10 Industrial Ripping Saw Blade</a>, 24T, .126″<br />
<br />
<b>Amana</b><br />
<a href="https://amzn.to/2GofauD" target="_blank">610200 Ripping Blade</a>, 20T, .126″<br />
<a href="https://amzn.to/3aJ1Ej5" target="_blank">RB1020C Electro-Blu</a>™ Carbide Tipped Euro Rip, 20T, .126″<br />
<br />
<b>Popular</b><br />
<a href="http://www.carbideprocessors.com/rip-gang-saw-blade-10in-x-24t-ftg-popular-tools-rf1024126/" target="_blank">RF1024126 Ripping Blade</a> 24T, .126″<br />
<br />
<b>Freud Blades</b><br />
<a href="https://amzn.to/37sU9ed" target="_blank">LM72M010 Heavy Duty Rip Blade</a>, 10" x 24T, .126″<br />
<div class="a-size-large a-spacing-none" id="title">
<span class="a-size-large" id="productTitle"><a href="https://amzn.to/37qDI24" target="_blank"><span class="a-size-large" id="productTitle">LM72M008</span> Heavy-Duty Rip Blade</a>, 8" x 24T, .126"
</span></div>
<br />
<b>Ridge Carbide</b><br />
<a href="https://amzn.to/2Gu7Ptj" target="_blank">TS2000 Full Kerf Rip Super Blade</a>, 24T, 1/8″<br />
<br />
<b>Tenryu</b><br />
None<br />
<br /></div>
Wood Knackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12504530045704441678noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8752469508644512851.post-7551475684873159182018-05-25T14:50:00.003-04:002018-06-01T12:31:27.447-04:00Book Review: Mid-Century Modern Furniture: Shop Drawings & Techniques for Making 29 Projects by Michael Crow<div class="a-section a-spacing-none" style="background-color: white; box-sizing: border-box; margin-bottom: 22px;">
<h3 style="box-sizing: border-box; clear: left; float: left; line-height: 1.3 !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; margin-top: 0px; padding: 0px; text-rendering: optimizeLegibility;">
<a href="https://amzn.to/2GRefRb" target="_blank"><img alt="Mid-century modern furniture" border="0" data-original-height="779" data-original-width="602" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VPAA-Rz-Oo8/WwhZMt3Nk9I/AAAAAAAAJCk/yCTi-bGIiosjtgOBU0j6AaKTl1X99E07QCLcBGAs/s400/Clipboard02.jpg" title="" width="309" /></a> </h3>
</div>
I read the Kindle version. The first 25% of the book is the history of mid-century modern and basic how-to woodworking, the general fluff that is common and frustrating in woodworking books. The woodworking how-to in particular is pointless as this book is aimed at intermediate or higher skill level woodworkers. To build these pieces you should already have an understanding of joinery, wood movement and the ability to read and build from minimalist plans. Most of the pieces are sketchup renderings only and I assume were never actually built by Michael Crowe. That isn't necessarily bad but you will be building untested plans. Typically you get a 3D rendering, an isometric exploded view with joinery, a 2D drawing with finished dimensions <i>not including joinery</i>, a cut list, and written instructions. The ones that have actually been built will have photos. When planning cuts, make sure to double check that the cut list allows for tenons. I spot checked and those did although the tenons on one were very short. On the Kindle version the pictures are clear, the cut lists easily readable, but I had to zoom in to read fractions. I definitely want to try some of the pieces in this book. Overall Michael Crowe has done an excellent job with the drawings and research. This book is definitely worth owning if you'd like to build mid-century furniture and I would love to see a Part II with even more designs.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<a href="https://amzn.to/2GRefRb" target="_blank">You can purchase this book from Amazon.</a></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-36m-khcf3RQ/WwhZMjGF7aI/AAAAAAAAJCg/3J2Wvg8kyKwhdbPB__bdTxG1bU2KCvcYQCLcBGAs/s1600/Clipboard04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-J0iBvD6TZUs/WwhZMsXGORI/AAAAAAAAJCc/Mti09WJ2PQcPr1rbALv5UD-YPy1WvzfdgCLcBGAs/s1600/Clipboard03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="775" data-original-width="598" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-J0iBvD6TZUs/WwhZMsXGORI/AAAAAAAAJCc/Mti09WJ2PQcPr1rbALv5UD-YPy1WvzfdgCLcBGAs/s400/Clipboard03.jpg" width="309" /></a><img border="0" data-original-height="771" data-original-width="595" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-36m-khcf3RQ/WwhZMjGF7aI/AAAAAAAAJCg/3J2Wvg8kyKwhdbPB__bdTxG1bU2KCvcYQCLcBGAs/s400/Clipboard04.jpg" width="309" /></div>
<br />Wood Knackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12504530045704441678noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8752469508644512851.post-68941037207117027502018-04-10T22:38:00.003-04:002018-04-10T22:38:27.380-04:00Confusing woodworking terms: apron vs stretcher, batten vs cleat, groove vs dadoRecently I used the word batten and someone "corrected" me that I meant cleat. I was referring to a piece of wood attached horizontally to vertical boards for the purpose of holding them together. It got me thinking about woodworking terms and what they mean. Are cleat and batten different things or different words for the same thing? And what about other terms like apron and stretcher? Or groove vs dado? You sometimes see these words used interchangeably but woodworking like many professions has words for different things to facilitate communication. A channel cut parallel to the grain is a groove but one cut perpendicular to the grain is a dado. Saying <i>dado</i> is easier than saying you cut <i>grooves perpendicular to the grain</i>. But cut that groove on the edge and it becomes a rabbet regardless of grain direction. But what if you are cutting grooves, rabbets and dadoes in the same workpiece, can you refer to the collective as grooves?<br />
<br />
Next one is easy, two things that look alike, act alike, are almost alike but aren't the same thing. An apron is a horizontal support piece that attaches to table legs AND tabletop, it ties three elements together. An apron opposes racking forces and secures a tabletop to the legs. A stretcher is similar except it does not attach to the top, it connects between two legs or stiles. But don't confuse it with a rail, which is a horizontal member that connects two stiles but is part of a frame! More on rails in a bit.<br />
<br />
And at last the words that prompted this discussion, is it a batten or cleat? Some would say they are the same thing, others that they are completely different. Let's look at some examples.<br />
<br />
A batten on a door holds the vertical boards together. A batten on a box connects opposite sides. Battens on a building straddle two pieces of siding, allowing them to expand or contract while keeping the edges down and covering the space between. A batten connects two or more things together.<br />
<br />
A cleat on a dock keeps the boat from floating away. The cleat on a flagpole is for attaching the rope holding up the flag. A gangplank has cleats that hold the planks together but also help keep us from slipping. Sport shoes have cleats to help us keep our footing. So a cleat keeps things together but not the same way as a batten.<br />
<br />
Things get messy quickly. A French cleat is used to hold a cabinet to the wall, makes sense with our understanding of a cleat but what about a ledger board which is a strip of wood used to support the weight of cabinets that are attached directly to the wall? Should it actually be called a cleat? Or is it an actual ledger?<br />
<br />
Battens are horizontal pieces that hold something together like a door or a fence. No wait, that isn't right, the horizontal boards on a fence are called rails! It's the exact opposite of furniture where rails are part of panel! Argh! Shouldn't they be fence battens? What do you think?Wood Knackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12504530045704441678noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8752469508644512851.post-64217413519924162532017-01-11T00:11:00.001-05:002017-07-31T15:32:27.802-04:00Building the Perfect Tool Chest by Jim Stack [book review]<h2>
Building the Perfect Tool Chest by Jim Stack</h2>
<br />
<a href="http://amzn.to/2f2sESu" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" target="_blank"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNqY2luWfbNWIjh4nd06nT-FVMy0S8uwqXROnLeGIGVbehNKTH2M2io6FYMfy-OU4lcoKqsqZOMGZO-b1c6hwkZvG1G5h78zR7GdMeuNNQlr22IOK5d6xDG5T6I_wfo2UTgwIBn0wwfgo/s1600/tool+chest.jpg" title="building the perfect tool chest by jim stack" /></a>Let me start by saying I love this book. I first found it in our <br />
local library and after renewing it three times decided to own it. In a nutshell it is fifteen tool box plans. Not the fancy shmancy quilted mahogany with ivory inlay type of boxes, or the kind where the tools are stacked eight levels deep, or the faddish type that are all the rage in magazines, but the kind of tool holders that most of us would use day to day.<br />
<br />
There is considerable variety from a simple box with lid, large tool chests, open tool tote, chest of drawers, a hanging cabinet, and even a box for fisherman. For each tool box there is a detailed materials list in both inches and metric, lots of photos and illustrations, and helpful tips on joinery and assembly. Many of the boxes are built with plywood or pine but you can substitute any material. Joinery varies a bit from box to box.<br />
<br />
There are fifteen projects and fifteen sections or chapters, plus a short introduction, a list of suppliers, and an index. This book assumes you have the basic knowledge and skills to complete the projects. It is not teaching woodworking, it is sharing ideas. So many times I've been disappointed because the cover has a couple nice projects but half the book is how to use a screwdriver and where to buy router bits. This book is fluff free and in my opinion all the toolboxes look useful and are logically constructed.<br />
<br />
If you wish to buy Building the Perfect Tool Chest, you can click the cover picture above to find it on Amazon.<br />
<br />
<h3>
Table of Contents</h3>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://amzn.to/2f2sESu" target="_blank"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XO2YkjVm-Qo/WHW9xKxKzII/AAAAAAAADgU/ey-XIEmiWrk9yQhltqJq1Vmn6lRK9tCAgCLcB/s640/building%2Bperfect%2Btool%2Bchest%2Bcontents.jpg" width="557" /></a></div>
<br />Wood Knackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12504530045704441678noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8752469508644512851.post-11018324722176170102016-09-01T22:04:00.001-04:002016-09-01T22:04:56.557-04:00First Tools for Hand Tool Woodworkers<span style="font-size: large;">Quick answer</span>: There isn't a quick and simple answer like with power tools. Hand work requires more tools, there is no way around. This list is meant for the beginning woodworker that wants to primarily use hand tools. There will be a separate article on hand tools for woodworkers using a mix of power and hand tools.<br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Long answer: </span><span style="font-size: medium;">I will break this down into categories beginning with milling rough stock and continuing on until finishing. People choose the hand tool route to avoid noise and fine dust; other times they wish to save money. Saving money isn't a good reason to go hand tool only. Sure, you can buy inexpensive hardware store tools meant for Harry Homeowner to use twice then rust into oblivion but for woodworking those tools will lead to frustration and poor results. If woodworking is to be your hobby, don't suck the fun out of it by using crappy tools. You don't have to buy top of the line tools but you should buy tools meant for professionals. I know that many get frustrated by this advice and feel like we don't know what it's like to be on a limited budget. Well I assure you I do know. When I started woodworking I had to save months just to buy a saw. And during that time I gave in and bought some tools that were cheap and frustrating and made me second guess being a woodworker. The only legitimate way to save money on hand tools is buy vintage tools from a time when portable power tools didn't exist or were uncommon. Put some elbow grease into those vintage tools and they will perform equal (or nearly so) to anything you can buy today. There are entire websites dedicated to buying vintage tools and it's too big a subject for this article. </span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Breaking down rough stock: </span>Many people, even hand tool advocates, use machinery for breaking down and milling because it's tedious, hard work. Way back in time before portable power tools, stock was usually milled prior to being sold to cabinet shops. Tools for breaking down and milling rough stock will be coarser than finish tools. We will assume you are buying rough boards from the lumberyard. If you are starting from a tree then you are beyond the scope of this article.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Thomas-Flinn-Walnut-Handled-Things/dp/B01DL0RFFI/ref=as_li_ss_il?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=F7HZZ735Y8TA8F4THPH7&linkCode=li3&tag=woodknack-20&linkId=a46b5a4679515f637b55a529f4768acb" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?_encoding=UTF8&ASIN=B01DL0RFFI&Format=_SL250_&ID=AsinImage&MarketPlace=US&ServiceVersion=20070822&WS=1&tag=woodknack-20" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: large;">Rough cutting/breaking down rough boards</span><br />
<ul>
<li>4 tpi rip panel saw, 24" or longer (5 or 5-1/2 tpi is acceptable)</li>
<li>5-7 tpi crosscut panel saw, 24" or longer (optional; you can delay purchase and use a finer crosscut saw but you will dull your fine saw quicker)</li>
<li>Tape Measure (I prefer 16' Stanley Powerlock. I've tried other brands and styles, the Powerlock always wins.)</li>
</ul>
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-33-158-4-Inch-PowerLock-Tape/dp/B00002X2GG/ref=as_li_ss_il?ie=UTF8&qid=1472757288&sr=8-5&keywords=stanley+powerlock&linkCode=li2&tag=woodknack-20&linkId=f063419ba9bb580f12bf8ee17c04738f" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?_encoding=UTF8&ASIN=B00002X2GG&Format=_SL160_&ID=AsinImage&MarketPlace=US&ServiceVersion=20070822&WS=1&tag=woodknack-20" /><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=woodknack-20&l=li2&o=1&a=B00002X2GG" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /></a><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Dressing/milling: Making the lumber usable</span><br />
<div>
<ul>
<li>6-7 tpi rip panel saw (Optional, you can delay purchase)</li>
<li>11-12 tpi crosscut panel saw</li>
<li>#5 jack plane for flattening and light thicknessing</li>
<li>#7 jointer plane for truing edges</li>
</ul>
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=woodknack-20&l=li3&o=1&a=B01DL0RFFI" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />
</div>
<span style="font-size: large;">Layout: </span>These are tools for planning and layout before cutting to final dimensions.<br />
<ul>
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Starrett-C11H-6-4R-Combination-Wrinkle-Graduation/dp/B000KUBIFG/ref=as_li_ss_il?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1472760255&sr=1-2&keywords=combination+square&refinements=p_36:1253530011,p_89:PEC+Tools%7CPEC%7CBrown+&+Sharpe%7CMitutoyo%7CPEC+-+USA%7CStarrett&linkCode=li2&tag=woodknack-20&linkId=04cd5c495bccb09f02842abb1b533bd1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?_encoding=UTF8&ASIN=B000KUBIFG&Format=_SL160_&ID=AsinImage&MarketPlace=US&ServiceVersion=20070822&WS=1&tag=woodknack-20" /></a>
<li><a href="http://amzn.to/2cu9nIh" target="_blank">Combination Square</a>: A combination square will provide a ruler, 90°, 45°, crude depth gauge, and level. This will be a go-to reference tool in your shop. Many find the 6" to be the most commonly used. You can buy an American made PEC Blem from Harry Epstein or Taylor Toolworks for around $30 (as of 2016). Blue Point, Starrett, Brown and Sharpe, and Mitutoyo also make quality squares. Vintage Lufkin are also good quality. </li>
<li>Bevel Gauge for angles</li>
<li>Marking Knife or Pencil (eventually you'll want a knife)</li>
<li>Marking Gauge (I prefer blade styles. Pins want to follow the grain.)</li>
</ul>
<img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=woodknack-20&l=li2&o=1&a=B000KUBIFG" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Final Cuts and Finishing</span><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-12-138-Bailey-No-9-1-Block/dp/B002B56CV8/ref=as_li_ss_il?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1472760397&sr=1-7&keywords=block+plane&refinements=p_72:1248909011&linkCode=li2&tag=woodknack-20&linkId=8035928790c2fe7562e64318154910db" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?_encoding=UTF8&ASIN=B002B56CV8&Format=_SL160_&ID=AsinImage&MarketPlace=US&ServiceVersion=20070822&WS=1&tag=woodknack-20" /></a></div>
<ul>
<li>11-14 tpi rip back saw</li>
<li>14-18 tpi crosscut back saw</li>
<li><a href="http://amzn.to/2bUaFa7" target="_blank">#4 smoothing plane</a></li>
<li><a href="http://amzn.to/2bFUoJZ" target="_blank">9-1/2 block plane</a></li>
<li><a href="http://amzn.to/2bFTZaj" target="_blank">Card Scrapers and burnisher</a></li>
<li>Shooting Board</li>
</ul>
<img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=woodknack-20&l=li2&o=1&a=B002B56CV8" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Miscellaneous</span><br />
<ul>
<li>Clamps, you can never have too many... short, med, long, bar, C, spring, all sorts, all sizes, all useful. Buy 'em as you need 'em. </li>
<li>Sandpaper and sanding blocks </li>
<li>Bench Hook</li>
<li>Workbench: A woodworking bench is more than a table, it is a work holding device, a big flat vise and a hand tool woodworker can't do without one. This should be one of your first projects.</li>
<li>Miter Box</li>
</ul>
<div>
<br /></div>
<br />
note; some links in this article are Amazon Affiliate and I will get a small percentage from Amazon if you buy using the link. The opinions are my own and not influenced in any way by outside parties.Wood Knackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12504530045704441678noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8752469508644512851.post-16625566695814589892016-08-02T10:00:00.000-04:002016-11-22T12:35:55.402-05:00Best Power Tools for New Woodworkers <span style="font-size: large;">Quick answer</span>: circular saw with 7-1/4" fine tooth Freud blade, electric drill. With these two power tools and some basic hand tools you can make furniture, boxes, shelves, and many other projects. <br />
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWD112-Pistol-Grip-Keyless-All-Metal/dp/B0011XSEW6/ref=as_li_ss_il?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1470853602&sr=1-10&keywords=electric+drill&refinements=p_72:1248909011&linkCode=li2&tag=woodknack-20&linkId=a5bbd57fab747f5a8d2cea6c5595c2ec" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?_encoding=UTF8&ASIN=B0011XSEW6&Format=_SL160_&ID=AsinImage&MarketPlace=US&ServiceVersion=20070822&WS=1&tag=woodknack-20" /></a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=woodknack-20&l=li2&o=1&a=B0011XSEW6" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Makita-5007MGA-Magnesium-Circular-Electric/dp/B000RQ68V2/ref=as_li_ss_il?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1470851994&sr=1-8&keywords=circular+saw&refinements=p_72:1248909011,p_36:10000-99999999&linkCode=li2&tag=woodknack-20&linkId=5d5722a8233150cea03c69bbee89dc65" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?_encoding=UTF8&ASIN=B000RQ68V2&Format=_SL160_&ID=AsinImage&MarketPlace=US&ServiceVersion=20070822&WS=1&tag=woodknack-20" /></a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=woodknack-20&l=li2&o=1&a=B000RQ68V2" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /> <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Freud-D0740A-Finishing-Knockout-PermaShield/dp/B00008WQ2G/ref=as_li_ss_il?ie=UTF8&qid=1469813011&sr=8-3&keywords=freud+circular+saw+blade&linkCode=li2&tag=woodknack-20&linkId=e19577032ed4f0a80a8628ed5f77e061" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?_encoding=UTF8&ASIN=B00008WQ2G&Format=_SL160_&ID=AsinImage&MarketPlace=US&ServiceVersion=20070822&WS=1&tag=woodknack-20" /></a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=woodknack-20&l=li2&o=1&a=B00008WQ2G" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />
<br />
<span style="font-size: x-small;">note; some links in this article are Amazon Affiliate and I will get a small percentage from Amazon if you buy using the link. The opinions are my own and not influenced in any way by outside parties.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Long answer:</span><br />
<br />
Jigs and hand tools will be covered in a separate article. My answers are predicated on a limited budget but that doesn't mean you should buy cheap.<br />
<br />
[General tip on buying used machinery: vintage American iron, or "arn", is considered King by many. Beginning in the 60's and especially in the 70's, Taiwanese machinery started to show up and many consider them equal, or at least a close second, to American made machinery. It's common to bash Chinese made machines but they can vary greatly in quality from total junk to excellent. The best values for beginners are usually American or Taiwan made machinery made prior to 2000. While not as cheap as typical Chinese machines, they will be a significant step up in quality. You can also more easily find parts and manuals.]<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Saws</b>. You'll be sawing wood on about every build so don't skimp. Quality saws cut like you imagine they should and cheap saws make the work frustrating and un-fun. A good circular saw will get you far, a tablesaw will get you farther. Handsaws are nice, buy them as you need them and don't skimp.<br />
<br />
<b>Circular saws</b> allow you to cut straight lines using easy to make jigs or a straight edge. Factory blades are meant for rough carpentry and will leave splintered edges so buy something like the <a href="http://amzn.to/2a5uYVl" target="_blank">Freud Ultra Finish</a> but keep the original blade for rough carpentry or cutting up reclaimed lumber which may have nails or dirt. Magnesium saws are lighter weight and less tiring. Electric brakes stop the blade quicker so you are less likely to accidentally cut something when setting down the saw.<br />
<a href="http://amzn.to/2ai9vde" target="_blank">Makita Magnesium</a><br />
<a href="http://amzn.to/2aj7wPx" target="_blank">Dewalt w/ electric brake</a><br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Makita-5007MGA-Magnesium-Circular-Electric/dp/B000RQ68V2/ref=as_li_ss_il?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1470851994&sr=1-8&keywords=circular+saw&refinements=p_72:1248909011,p_36:10000-99999999&linkCode=li2&tag=woodknack-20&linkId=5d5722a8233150cea03c69bbee89dc65" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?_encoding=UTF8&ASIN=B000RQ68V2&Format=_SL160_&ID=AsinImage&MarketPlace=US&ServiceVersion=20070822&WS=1&tag=woodknack-20" /></a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=woodknack-20&l=li2&o=1&a=B000RQ68V2" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /> <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Freud-D0740A-Finishing-Knockout-PermaShield/dp/B00008WQ2G/ref=as_li_ss_il?ie=UTF8&qid=1469813011&sr=8-3&keywords=freud+circular+saw+blade&linkCode=li2&tag=woodknack-20&linkId=e19577032ed4f0a80a8628ed5f77e061" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?_encoding=UTF8&ASIN=B00008WQ2G&Format=_SL160_&ID=AsinImage&MarketPlace=US&ServiceVersion=20070822&WS=1&tag=woodknack-20" /></a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=woodknack-20&l=li2&o=1&a=B00008WQ2G" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />
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<br />
Table saw vs. band saw: At some point you'll come to this dilemma; it boils down to if you are cutting mostly straight lines the tablesaw wins. If you are cutting irregular shapes, circles, and resawing lumber a good quality 14" (or bigger) band saw wins. Tablesaws can also do moldings and cove cuts. In my opinion, the tablesaw is the most versatile tool in a woodworking shop, arguably equaled only by the router. Unless you need to transport your saw to the jobsite, I recommend against a <a href="http://amzn.to/2amyEBc" target="_blank">benchtop saw</a>. They are tempting for budgetary reasons but are loud, the fences are flimsy, the table is small and are meant for rough carpentry work not fine woodworking. If you are that strapped for cash I would recommend buying a used saw or <a href="https://woodgears.ca/homemade_tablesaw/saw2.html" target="_blank">building a tablesaw</a>.<br />
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<b>Very important tip: </b>the fence is the most important part of the saw. A quality fence on a mediocre saw is better than a crappy fence on a great saw. The best fence in my opinion is the Delta Unifence which is no longer in production. It wasn't popular because you can't use jigs that slide on top like the Biesemeyer but there are <a href="http://amzn.to/2aaiQy4" target="_blank">aftermarket fence replacements</a> that give it that ability. But the Unifence has some unique features like tall and short faces and the ability to slide rearward which helps prevent kickback. And it is a very strong and rigid fence that resists flex better than any other. The second best fence is the <a href="http://amzn.to/2aikp2H" target="_blank">Biesemeyer</a> and it's <a href="http://amzn.to/2a5FjjY" target="_blank">clones</a>. Other popular fences are the <a href="http://amzn.to/2aaivez" target="_blank">Incra</a> and <a href="http://amzn.to/2aaifwe" target="_blank">Vega</a>.<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Power-Tools-78-919BT2-Biesemeyer/dp/B00CUIZNZC/ref=as_li_ss_il?ie=UTF8&qid=1469818746&sr=8-1&keywords=tablesaw+fence&linkCode=li2&tag=woodknack-20&linkId=76a6a6dbb33c789a05999eda537bd9fc" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?_encoding=UTF8&ASIN=B00CUIZNZC&Format=_SL160_&ID=AsinImage&MarketPlace=US&ServiceVersion=20070822&WS=1&tag=woodknack-20" /></a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=woodknack-20&l=li2&o=1&a=B00CUIZNZC" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /><br />
<br />
<b>New tablesaw recommendations</b>: My personal bias is to buy saws from companies that design and make them, like Delta, Sawstop, Jet or Powermatic instead of companies that buy off the shelf designs and rebadge them (Ridgid, Sears, Rockwell). [Jet started as an importer] Also beware that Ridgid, Sears, and some Grizzy saws have an alignment defect that has persisted for many years and those companies are just getting around to fixing it in manufacturing but if you buy one with the defect, you are probably stuck with it.<br />
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The <a href="http://amzn.to/2aj8FqF" target="_blank">new Delta contractor saws</a> are well regarded and easily portable. <a href="http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Hybrid-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife-Polar-Bear-Series/G0715P?utm_campaign=zPage" target="_blank">Grizzly hybrid saws</a> are a solid choice. <a href="http://amzn.to/2aaaJBp" target="_blank">Sawstop</a> <a href="http://amzn.to/2aaa8Q6" target="_blank">tablesaws</a> are very high quality.<br />
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Delta-36-5000-10-Inch-Contractor-30-Inch/dp/B00LHUWA50/ref=as_li_ss_il?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1469814569&sr=1-1&keywords=delta+tablesaw&linkCode=li2&tag=woodknack-20&linkId=7bc67b9b853a497b426c899ce29a98af" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?_encoding=UTF8&ASIN=B00LHUWA50&Format=_SL160_&ID=AsinImage&MarketPlace=US&ServiceVersion=20070822&WS=1&tag=woodknack-20" /></a> <img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=woodknack-20&l=li2&o=1&a=B00LHUWA50" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HPWDYO/ref=as_li_ss_il?ie=UTF8&linkCode=li2&tag=woodknack-20&linkId=f57db77d70589037766dcfa2a146022b" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?_encoding=UTF8&ASIN=B005HPWDYO&Format=_SL160_&ID=AsinImage&MarketPlace=US&ServiceVersion=20070822&WS=1&tag=woodknack-20" /></a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=woodknack-20&l=li2&o=1&a=B005HPWDYO" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />
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<b>Used tablesaw recommendations</b>: The Delta and Rockwell contractor saws from the 70's - early 2000's are the best value in tablesaws especially if you buy one with a Unifence or Biesemeyer (or Bies clone). They often sell from $200-500 depending on fence and options. Older Craftsman tablesaws from the 70's - 80's are also well regarded but ignore the advertised HP rating, they often say 3HP but are really 1.5HP. If you buy an old Craftsman you'll want to change the fence to a Biesemeyer clone.<br />
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<b>Bandsaws</b>. A cheap bandsaw is better than no bandsaw. But there isn't a lot of difference between small (under 14") cheap bandsaws so don't overthink the decision. I would recommend buying the best used bandsaw, 14" or over, that you can afford. Or buy the cheapest bandsaw you can find, that runs well. Avoid 3 wheel bandsaws as the smaller wheels fatigue blades causing them to break often. Most bandsaws are clones of the Delta 14". (Actually most woodworking machines are Delta clones.)<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G0555LX-Deluxe-Bandsaw-14-Inch/dp/B000KOXXQE/ref=as_li_ss_il?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1470852419&sr=1-12&keywords=band+saw&linkCode=li2&tag=woodknack-20&linkId=ea4fc96dd9afb0ab0cabc44f62bde19e" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?_encoding=UTF8&ASIN=B000KOXXQE&Format=_SL160_&ID=AsinImage&MarketPlace=US&ServiceVersion=20070822&WS=1&tag=woodknack-20" /></a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=woodknack-20&l=li2&o=1&a=B000KOXXQE" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />
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<br />
<b>Jig saws</b> are great for rough cutting irregular shapes but are overrated and over recommended as beginner tools. They are less intimidating than circular saws but also less useful. Wait until you need one then buy the best <a href="http://amzn.to/2aagAH3" target="_blank">Bosch</a> you can afford, a used one is fine. Believe me, cheap jig saws are not worth the trouble. Bosch is not the only company that makes a quality jig saw but they invented them (sort of) and everything else is a clone so why not buy the original.<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-JS260-120-Volt-Top-Handle-Jigsaw/dp/B004323NQY/ref=as_li_ss_il?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1470852300&sr=1-6&refinements=p_89:BOSCH&linkCode=li2&tag=woodknack-20&linkId=15a95da57f5f89096e3bf6ca337044db" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?_encoding=UTF8&ASIN=B004323NQY&Format=_SL160_&ID=AsinImage&MarketPlace=US&ServiceVersion=20070822&WS=1&tag=woodknack-20" /></a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=woodknack-20&l=li2&o=1&a=B004323NQY" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />
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<b>Routers </b>are multi-purpose tools, there are so many jigs that extend their use it's worth buying a good one and eventually several. Both my routers <a href="http://amzn.to/2anuKVF" target="_blank">(1)</a> & <a href="http://amzn.to/2awI2kP" target="_blank">(2)</a> are Porter Cable. When I started woodworking they were the go-to company for routers but other companies have caught up. The guys at Fine Woodworking really like this <a href="http://amzn.to/2bgzvEx" target="_blank">Dewalt kit</a> with two bases.<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWP611PK-Torque-Variable-Compact/dp/B0049ZFUK2//ref=as_li_ss_il?ie=UTF8&linkCode=li2&tag=woodknack-20&linkId=1bed944377ed95075ca27070bb1f9827" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?_encoding=UTF8&ASIN=B0049ZFUK2&Format=_SL160_&ID=AsinImage&MarketPlace=US&ServiceVersion=20070822&WS=1&tag=woodknack-20" /></a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=woodknack-20&l=li2&o=1&a=B0049ZFUK2" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />
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Drills, you'll probably use a hand drill more often than a drill press but a press is nice when you need a straight hole or want to use Forstner bits. Don't go overboard on an electric hand drill, just buy a decent one. If you want to splurge for cordless they are worth it.<br />
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWD112-Pistol-Grip-Keyless-All-Metal/dp/B0011XSEW6/ref=as_li_ss_il?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1470853602&sr=1-10&keywords=electric+drill&refinements=p_72:1248909011&linkCode=li2&tag=woodknack-20&linkId=a5bbd57fab747f5a8d2cea6c5595c2ec" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?_encoding=UTF8&ASIN=B0011XSEW6&Format=_SL160_&ID=AsinImage&MarketPlace=US&ServiceVersion=20070822&WS=1&tag=woodknack-20" /></a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=woodknack-20&l=li2&o=1&a=B0011XSEW6" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />
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<b>Drill press</b>: A cheap drill press is better than no drill press but I would recommend saving up until you can buy something 12" or larger and fairly good quality. Buying used is fine, mount a drill bit and give it a shake to see how much slop is in the quill.<br />
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/J-2500-15-Inch-4-Horsepower-115-Volt-Floor/dp/B002Q9T5PE/ref=as_li_ss_il?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1470853554&sr=1-3&keywords=drill+press&refinements=p_72:1248909011&linkCode=li2&tag=woodknack-20&linkId=6195c5d007b93317811e5849930b946d" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?_encoding=UTF8&ASIN=B002Q9T5PE&Format=_SL160_&ID=AsinImage&MarketPlace=US&ServiceVersion=20070822&WS=1&tag=woodknack-20" /></a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=woodknack-20&l=li2&o=1&a=B002Q9T5PE" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />
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<b>Jointer</b>: If you become a serious woodworker you'll want a jointer. They make your life easier and projects better. Some believe they are unnecessary but jointing is the first step in milling rough stock: 1) flatten one face 2) straighten one edge. My recommendation starting out would be to buy used 6" Delta/Rockwell, Powermatic, Jet, or Grizzly. Deltas are always the most common.<br />
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/708457DXK-JJ-6CSDX-Jointer-Quick-Set-230-Volt/dp/B000BHNAJA/ref=as_li_ss_il?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1470853453&sr=1-9&keywords=jointer&linkCode=li2&tag=woodknack-20&linkId=44df6bd6a4b675c0a9b4436dd5c36901" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?_encoding=UTF8&ASIN=B000BHNAJA&Format=_SL160_&ID=AsinImage&MarketPlace=US&ServiceVersion=20070822&WS=1&tag=woodknack-20" /></a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=woodknack-20&l=li2&o=1&a=B000BHNAJA" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /><br />
Planer. Very useful for making wood a consistent thickness and cleaning up saw marks. <a href="http://amzn.to/2aALNa7" target="_blank">Dewalt planers</a> are currently very popular.<br />
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW735X-Two-Speed-Planer-Package/dp/B003OX9KME/ref=as_li_ss_il?ie=UTF8&qid=1469819739&sr=8-1&keywords=dewalt+planer&linkCode=li2&tag=woodknack-20&linkId=964328b34e4674aa42653034a5235222" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?_encoding=UTF8&ASIN=B003OX9KME&Format=_SL160_&ID=AsinImage&MarketPlace=US&ServiceVersion=20070822&WS=1&tag=woodknack-20" /></a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=woodknack-20&l=li2&o=1&a=B003OX9KME" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /><br />
<span style="font-size: large;">Conclusion</span><br />
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Some may be disappointed this article wasn't a love letter to Harbor Freight as it is common advice to tell new woodworkers to go there and buy all your tools but cheap tools are frustrating to use and make the work more difficult. And if you think being in the middle of a project and not having the right tool is frustrating, wait until you are in the middle of a project and your tool breaks. you don't need nice tools to do nice work but it sure makes the process more enjoyable. I have never regretted buying a quality tool but I sure have regretted not buying it sooner.<br />
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Here is my list of basic power tools for woodworking in vaguely the order you should buy them. This is meant as a general guideline only. Like everything in life, situation and goals dictate your actions.<br />
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<ol>
<li>Electric or battery powered hand drill</li>
<li>Electric circular saw, track saw, or tablesaw</li>
<li>Router</li>
<li>Tablesaw, best you can afford, if you don't have one yet</li>
<li>Drill press </li>
<li>Band saw</li>
<li>Planer</li>
<li>Jointer</li>
<li>Jigsaw (or as needed)</li>
</ol>
<div>
Optional: Biscuit joiner. Not to open a can of worms but there is a lot of misinformation and irrational hatred for biscuit joiners. Mine doesn't get used a lot but it's very handy. Contrary to popular myth they are not for alignment, they are "joiners", and are meant for strengthening butt joints. Most likely you can live without one and cheap ones are frustrating so I would wait until you need it and can afford a <a href="http://amzn.to/2aiorbp" target="_blank">Porter Cable</a>. If you suffer from too thick a wallet then the <a href="http://amzn.to/2akdi77" target="_blank">Lamello</a> is the mac daddy.<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-557-Amp-Plate-Joiner/dp/B00004YKUO/ref=as_li_ss_il?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1470854559&sr=1-1&keywords=biscuit+joiner&refinements=p_89:PORTER-CABLE&linkCode=li2&tag=woodknack-20&linkId=0a65232abad117b04b2fa1a640009083" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?_encoding=UTF8&ASIN=B00004YKUO&Format=_SL160_&ID=AsinImage&MarketPlace=US&ServiceVersion=20070822&WS=1&tag=woodknack-20" /></a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=woodknack-20&l=li2&o=1&a=B00004YKUO" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Optional: Domino. If you run a production shop or have money to burn or just want to be one of the cool kids, the <a href="http://amzn.to/2av4qws" target="_blank">Festool Domino</a> and is nice to have (or so I'm told).<br />
<br /></div>
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Festool-574447-700-Domino-Joiner/dp/B007RB7JA4/ref=as_li_ss_il?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1470854595&sr=1-2&keywords=festool+domino&linkCode=li2&tag=woodknack-20&linkId=0b77f151f2036d96f96fefd9634a1d23" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?_encoding=UTF8&ASIN=B007RB7JA4&Format=_SL160_&ID=AsinImage&MarketPlace=US&ServiceVersion=20070822&WS=1&tag=woodknack-20" /></a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=woodknack-20&l=li2&o=1&a=B007RB7JA4" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />
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<br />
Optional: Lathe. Woodturning is a branch of woodworking unto itself and many find it fun and rewarding. If you think you will like turning, you probably will. The Delta Midi is currently the most popular and best (according to magazine reviews) mid-size lathe on the market. Many people choose to buy a vintage lathe first, see my article on <a href="http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/p/how-to-buy-vintage-lathe.html">How to buy a vintage lathe</a>. Set aside extra money for lathe tools and accessories.<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Industrial-46-460-2-Inch-Variable-Speed/dp/B00309ZZRQ/ref=as_li_ss_il?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1470854695&sr=1-1&keywords=delta+wood+lathe&linkCode=li2&tag=woodknack-20&linkId=2dbe2babd2397c8a58956f764ece4f09" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?_encoding=UTF8&ASIN=B00309ZZRQ&Format=_SL160_&ID=AsinImage&MarketPlace=US&ServiceVersion=20070822&WS=1&tag=woodknack-20" /></a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=woodknack-20&l=li2&o=1&a=B00309ZZRQ" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />Wood Knackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12504530045704441678noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8752469508644512851.post-3172594790127740162016-05-22T22:31:00.002-04:002016-08-13T22:14:46.664-04:00How to buy a vintage wood latheItching for a new pastime and think woodturning might be your thing but don't want to spend a lot of money on an unproven hobby. So you troll Craigslist but lathes in your price range were hot stuff during the Eisenhower administration. Then you spy this little beauty with some scratches and patina and it calls to you. For the price of date night you could be a woodturner; but should you buy it? What are you getting in to?<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XdKjkh6KL_w/VS6iZ_1w6CI/AAAAAAAACKM/cz9IU7lezB4viY58zZQnmV2n3o8O7HruwCKgB/s1600/GP125-003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="244" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XdKjkh6KL_w/VS6iZ_1w6CI/AAAAAAAACKM/cz9IU7lezB4viY58zZQnmV2n3o8O7HruwCKgB/s640/GP125-003.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1920's-30's Goodell Pratt, not recommended for a first lathe.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<b>Let's narrow this down quickly</b> -- my recommendation is focus your search on cast iron by recognizable brands (Delta, Craftsman, Etc.) lathes that were manufactured after 1945. Why? Over time popular features became standardized making it easier to reuse chucks, centers, faceplates, etc. as you upgrade lathes. Lathes from the 1800's and early 1900's may have oddball or even one-off spindle and thread combinations that will require custom adapters. <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machine_taper" target="_blank">Machine tapers</a> were not yet standardized and they may have Morse. Prior to about 1940 bearings were likely to be <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plain_bearing" target="_blank">bronze bushings</a> which require frequent oiling and are a poor choice for high speed motors. <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rolling-element_bearing" target="_blank">Ball bearings</a> became common after 1950. There are good choices besides Delta or Craftsman but those two are the most common and both standardized early. Post 1950 should keep you away from oddball stuff; late 50's is even better. In fact, the newer the better but this article is focused on lathes from 1950-1980. Check the bottom of the article for a list of older lathes that are suitable for modern beginners.<br />
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What is this talk of standardization? Modern wood lathes have two ways to attach accessories, 1) <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spindle_(tool)" target="_blank">threaded spindles</a> and 2) <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machine_taper" target="_blank">machine tapers</a>. The spindle is the shaft to which your work attaches on one end and power attaches on the other end. The case that holds the spindle is called the headstock. Modern lathes have threading on the outside of the spindle so that faceplates or scroll chucks like the <a href="http://amzn.to/2b1N61v" target="_blank">Nova G3</a> can thread on. The spindle is hollow, and the working end will have a machine taper into which accessories like drive centers, drill chucks or drill bits can fit. But lathes didn't always have both threads and tapers, and it's possible for the headstock to have a taper but not the tailstock. If the lathe you are considering doesn't have both a threaded spindle on the headstock and a machine taper on head and tailstock, I would pass on it.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This lathe has a spindle threaded on both ends so you can attach accessories to the outboard side. The silver pin is for indexing.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lathe with a threaded spindle and Morse taper</td></tr>
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Threaded spindles come in several sizes, the three most common in order are 1"-8 tpi (1" spindle with 8 <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Screw_thread#Lead.2C_pitch.2C_and_starts" target="_blank">threads per inch</a>), 3/4"-16 tpi, and 1-1/4"-8 tpi. Lathes eventually standardized on <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machine_taper#Morse" target="_blank">Morse taper</a> inside the spindle but very old lathes may have other tapers. Vintage Delta lathes are almost always 1-8 thread and #2 Morse taper in headstock and tailstock. Vintage Craftsman lathes are almost always 3/4-16 threads and #1 Morse taper in headstock and tailstock. There are exceptions, but they are rare.<br />
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What about the motor? Most old lathes will come with a 110V motor between 1/4 - 1 HP and will have 4 pulleys on the headstock giving you 4 possible speeds. These are enough for basic turning but eventually you can add <a href="http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/search/label/variable%20speed%20motor" target="_blank">variable speed</a> to get much more utility from your lathe.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A "4 speed" lathe, note the step pulley with 4 grooves. Speeds are changed by moving the v-belt. </td></tr>
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Swing is the distance between the center of the spindle and the bed of the lathe, doubled. So if that distance is 4.5", it is a 9" swing lathe. The greater the swing the larger the items you can turn. Craftsman sold bajillions of 9x30 lathes, 9" swing and 30" max capacity between centers. If you want to make table legs, these 9x30 lathes are ideal. They are also useful for other spindle work like tool handles, honey dippers, spoons, cups, and small bowls. Delta lathes are more commonly 12" swing and allow you a little more room for bowls and platters. Delta also sold gap bed lathes, like this <a href="http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/2015/04/rockwell-delta-46-111-lathe-part-1.html" target="_blank">46-111</a>, that have more swing near the headstock.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KvXfMdzstBc/VHGRKiansGI/AAAAAAAAB1Q/e9lGaR7Z7-wNv1OUumpCsv76tG2PWBlTgCKgB/s1600/IMG_20130329_181114.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="456" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KvXfMdzstBc/VHGRKiansGI/AAAAAAAAB1Q/e9lGaR7Z7-wNv1OUumpCsv76tG2PWBlTgCKgB/s640/IMG_20130329_181114.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1958 Craftsman 9x30 bench lathe modified with variable speed</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">1970's Rockwell Delta 46-111 gap bed lathe</td></tr>
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<b>So what to buy? My top recommendation would be a Delta because of the larger spindle and swing.</b> I recommend buying a Delta or Craftsman lathe made in the 50's or later that has a threaded headstock spindle (sizes 1-8 or 3/4-16) and Morse taper in <u>both</u> head and tail stock. Look for a manual on <a href="http://vintagemachinery.org/">vintagemachinery.org</a>. Sometimes the manual will not tell you the tapers or thread sizes but it will be good information regardless. If the taper size isn't listed anywhere, they are easy to measure. A #1MT (Morse taper) is a little less than 1/2" across on the spindle. A #2MT is a tad over 11/16" diameter on the spindle. Before buying, have the lathe running and listen for any screeching, scratching, or grinding that may indicate bearings need replacement. Make sure the tailstock turns in and out freely and that the centers are removable from both head and tailstock. With centers in place, slide the tailstock to the headstock and check that the center points touch. A tiny amount of misalignment is not a deal killer but a big misalignment may indicate a Frankenlathe (a lathe assembled from parts of other lathes), mismatched parts, or other problems.<br />
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A list of vintage lathes that are good candidates for modern use. All lathes listed below have ball bearings or roller bearings, cast iron bed, a #1 or #2 Morse Taper, same taper in the headstock and tailstock, and a common spindle size. Years noted are the oldest I've been able to verify for a particular model, earlier years may not have ball bearings, tapers, or other conveniences. If no year is listed then I believe all years of that model to be the same. I welcome your contributions. Check back for updates.<br />
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Format: Manufacturer | Model | Earliest Year | Size | Bearings | Taper Size | Spindle Size | Notes<br />
How to read the size: a 12x36 lathe will have a swing of 12" (the spindle is 6" from the lathe bed) and 36" between centers.<br />
<ul>
<li>Power King Deluxe (1933+), 11x36, ball bearings, 2MT, 1x8 spindle</li>
<li>Power King 7100, 10x37, ball bearings, 1MT, 3/4x16 spindle</li>
<li>Power King 7120, 12x37, ball bearings, 2MT, 1x8 spindle</li>
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<li>Sears Craftsman 103 (1948+), 9x30, ball bearings, 1MT, 3/4x16 spindle</li>
<li>Sears Craftsman (1940+), 10x36, ball bearings, 2MT, 1x8 spindle [Was advertised as a 10x54, 54 being the length of the bed. Sears had a long history of exaggerating specs up through the 1980s]</li>
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<ul>
<li>Delta 930 (1935 and later), 11x37, Timken roller bearings, 2MT, 1x8 spindle</li>
<li>Delta/Rockwell 46-111, 11x36, ball bearings, 2MT, 1x8 spindle</li>
<li>Delta 1460 (1940+), 12x37, ball bearings, 2MT, 1x8 spindle</li>
<li>Delta 46-305 and variants, 12x37, ball bearings, 2MT, 1x8 spindle</li>
<li>Delta 46-400, 12x38, ball bearings, 2MT, 1x8 spindle</li>
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<ul>
<li>Powermatic 45, 12x39, ball bearings, 2MT, 1x8 spindle</li>
<li>Powermatic 90, 12x38, ball bearings, 2MT, 1-1/2x8 spindle</li>
<li>General 160, 12x37, ball bearings, 2MT, 1x8 spindle</li>
<li>Montgomery Ward/Duro, 14x38, ball bearings, 2MT, 1-1/8x7 spindle [this is an uncommon spindle size but Teknatool does have it on their list of adapters.]</li>
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Wood Knackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12504530045704441678noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8752469508644512851.post-40502695311400102272016-05-22T19:05:00.001-04:002016-05-22T19:05:20.903-04:00Tool Caddies for the Tablesaw and Lathe<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYt_Yf06c5g3zwDsLLR_P0jW_-DlrgrnAfdMFkTVdl3qKS1jejbtzTraQ4teTX5SOGJ4Rm7OoYh-M5kejiccqwbFV3K_wZ4tqoE-zjjLyKCmUA9pSOT1uRKuRKodXzh6WF_65n1xkgPvQ/s1600/tool+caddies+005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYt_Yf06c5g3zwDsLLR_P0jW_-DlrgrnAfdMFkTVdl3qKS1jejbtzTraQ4teTX5SOGJ4Rm7OoYh-M5kejiccqwbFV3K_wZ4tqoE-zjjLyKCmUA9pSOT1uRKuRKodXzh6WF_65n1xkgPvQ/s320/tool+caddies+005.jpg" width="320" /></a>Long time in coming: simple tool caddies to collect my most commonly used tools in a designated place. Construction is super simple, butt joints, glue, and brad nails. Bottom of both is 1/8" oak/poplar ply. The TS caddy bottom fits into a dado. The lathe caddy bottom fits into a rabbet and is tacked with glue and 5/8" brads. Why are they different? Because I wanted to see if one way would be more durable than the other.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Caddy holds a Nova G3, Nova Midi & tommy bars, Delta centers, Nova centers, PSI centers, Bondhus 4mm hex wrench, knockout bar, and extra jaws.</td></tr>
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I have two lathes so a caddy is more convenient than a fixed location like a drawer, a cabinet, or on the wall. Now I can bring my chucks and centers to whichever lathe I'm using in one easy to carry box. I may add holders that will attach to the backside of the caddy for a few lathe chisels.<br />
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The TS caddy was badly needed. These are tools I use constantly, like tape measures, a marking knife, pencils, a 6" combo square, pocket calipers, center punch, scribe, Wixey, 12" rule and 6" rule. In the past these tools wanted to clutter my tablesaw and end up on the fence. Since my TS is in the center of the shop, this caddy is within a step or two of any other tool. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5-BwrSaVz7NkzBZ_xk9V4TyONRunYYJyK-tE2du8-4QWBK69rIG0etulbC5yGV2qSsxnbwkGrn4NeeYI-JZPXd_9oJ6ii2-chfvZBnGtUMcJwsQse-BJoGNA1FuqwCzbckVpiMtAZsJE/s1600/tool+caddies+006.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="220" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5-BwrSaVz7NkzBZ_xk9V4TyONRunYYJyK-tE2du8-4QWBK69rIG0etulbC5yGV2qSsxnbwkGrn4NeeYI-JZPXd_9oJ6ii2-chfvZBnGtUMcJwsQse-BJoGNA1FuqwCzbckVpiMtAZsJE/s320/tool+caddies+006.jpg" width="320" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJzB5ZUOrUr7HxswSIvHbh0mDVUUowmVk9q-ZSfSRuK4Ag_D8CL6N264JF9r4423BbqkFE6cfBeTiK7elu8BKJiswspFq1abpHEej_ytvFvdWnwyXXafBVL-6eXaAZCzbazBPsEPCJYDw/s1600/tool+caddies+007.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJzB5ZUOrUr7HxswSIvHbh0mDVUUowmVk9q-ZSfSRuK4Ag_D8CL6N264JF9r4423BbqkFE6cfBeTiK7elu8BKJiswspFq1abpHEej_ytvFvdWnwyXXafBVL-6eXaAZCzbazBPsEPCJYDw/s320/tool+caddies+007.jpg" width="320" /></a> <a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jDvC4ento5k/V0I2ZsQinJI/AAAAAAAACsk/el7QfKe2ZN8bVIdhJQnlD2KNunjHzOdAACK4B/s1600/tool%2Bcaddies%2B008.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jDvC4ento5k/V0I2ZsQinJI/AAAAAAAACsk/el7QfKe2ZN8bVIdhJQnlD2KNunjHzOdAACK4B/s320/tool%2Bcaddies%2B008.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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<b>The Tools</b><br />
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Why do I have 3 tape measures? Good question, guess I have tape measure fetish. The yellow Stanley is both inch and metric. Once upon a time I planned to convert entirely to metric but it isn't very practical as American woodworking is still inch centric. The green tape is my newest and is a center finding tape measure, regular inches on top and half scale inches on bottom, I like it. The black and chrome center tape is a Lufkin engineer scale (tenths of inches). Some other tools of note are a BluePoint 12" combo square, a Lufkin 6" combo square, a Bluepoint automatic center punch, a Stanley scribe, a General pocket caliper, an iGaging digital caliper, a 6" Craftsman rule, a 12" rule (can't remember the brand).Wood Knackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12504530045704441678noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8752469508644512851.post-76181246338597806982016-04-29T16:04:00.001-04:002016-04-29T16:36:31.006-04:00Folded Cube Table / Stool / Bench<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTqTAUc6mSQs51A5m7y6qfzIeFqm-o8wEfVznTCQroaS0NQQ8Q1GGQBoKrLDP6o4FgBIKFUMwX3mrvdU3VVrevZqqxmGaEuy9lI3_S4HdYTuodevYPOKJDsSnmsC8w8qsTgDWZq2JMSOo/s1600/Brenna+Project+800.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTqTAUc6mSQs51A5m7y6qfzIeFqm-o8wEfVznTCQroaS0NQQ8Q1GGQBoKrLDP6o4FgBIKFUMwX3mrvdU3VVrevZqqxmGaEuy9lI3_S4HdYTuodevYPOKJDsSnmsC8w8qsTgDWZq2JMSOo/s640/Brenna+Project+800.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Around 1pm Thursday my oldest daughter tells me she has a project due 9am Friday for her design class. Okay, sure I'm happy to help. Turns out it is THE project, which they had the entire semester to do and is 1/3 their grade. I leave the room and stew for a few minutes because I'm very angry, get over it, fetch my daughter and we go to work. We take care of the paperwork portion, then the prototype requirement, and by 4pm-ish we are in the shop starting work on the actual build. We discuss lots of options but realistically we only have time for plywood. The idea is a cube table/bench/stool made of 8 triangles (legs) and 1 square (the top). Everything is mitered. It was tempting to say, 'It will be butt joints, glued and brad nailed,' and we would have been done in half the time but this is a design project, not a: make Dad's life easy project.<br />
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We cut squares, then bisected the squares to make 45/45/90 triangles for the legs. I hot glued plywood scraps to the sled for registering the squares. The hypotenuse doesn't need to be precise, just cleanly cut. To prevent splintering, we set the blade about 1/8" above the sled and ran the squares backward over it. After scoring all the pieces, we raised the blade and cut through.<br />
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Miters were cut by burying the blade into a sacrificial fence and sliding the edge to be mitered along the fence. The benefit is you can cut your pieces to finished size before mitering. I recommend running each piece through twice, first with the miter gauge to remove some waste then a second time against the fence to cut your final miter. That reduces the cut off and prevents it being trapped under the blade.<br />
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What luck. Two nasty storms, with hail, came through a few hours apart and both knocked out the power. At one point we busted out my Goodell miter saw from the early 1900's and using a battery powered light, kept working. Here she is making a test cut to make sure we are at exactly 45°, the old miter box was dead nuts.<br />
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Here are pictures of the glue up, which was tricky because everything is mitered and wanted to slip around. We considered biscuits or splines but with all the glue surfaces they weren't necessary for strength and we were against a deadline.<br />
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There wasn't time for a finish but that's how it goes when you procrastinate. We worked until around 2:00 am -ish; 4am now and I'm still wired from too many cups of coffee. I'll get more pictures when she brings it home again. [update; finished picture at top] Considering it was last minute, I'm proud of the result and proud of her work ethic today. (Not proud of her putting it off until today, we are going to have a talk about that.) I don't think it would have been much better if we had more time. The miters came together extremely well considering how many there are. Four of the triangles are mitered on three sides. The top is mitered on four sides. The remaining four triangles are mitered on two sides. And lord help me, she wants to build another one from solid wood.Wood Knackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12504530045704441678noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8752469508644512851.post-47084666175692245842016-04-08T22:13:00.003-04:002016-07-27T01:03:38.227-04:00Upgraded Dust Collector FilterUpgraded my Delta AP400 dust collector to a <a href="http://amzn.to/2at3qbV" target="_blank">Delta 1 micron bag</a>. The original was 30 micron. The new bag is much thicker, so much that it stands up on it's own. The 30 micron bag snapped up when inflated and was as taught as a balloon. Despite being thicker, the new one is pretty much the same with the collector running or off so I guess that means the new bag has less resistance; a lot less resistance.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6URQll8KkYWM0xBsU6ESi4JcTJ0XaTFuMtnGAHovGbXXc7EAn5bSi4VeazNFolnhgkCF_ChQYfVQUCRGJHdbUQZ3tWTJ_vk01_Ps2eVVyjLvX1ABLGW8-_HMwT0GVFKXskYWhZhC6qjM/s1600/Woodworking+Random+18.jpg" imageanchor="1"></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oXI2C-Tyfks/Vwhjfk_yfsI/AAAAAAAACo4/VnvlRioG1dUBTHYdq7jA581E8fKCMiQMA/s1600/Woodworking%2BRandom%2B19.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oXI2C-Tyfks/Vwhjfk_yfsI/AAAAAAAACo4/VnvlRioG1dUBTHYdq7jA581E8fKCMiQMA/s320/Woodworking%2BRandom%2B19.jpg" width="240" /></a> <img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6URQll8KkYWM0xBsU6ESi4JcTJ0XaTFuMtnGAHovGbXXc7EAn5bSi4VeazNFolnhgkCF_ChQYfVQUCRGJHdbUQZ3tWTJ_vk01_Ps2eVVyjLvX1ABLGW8-_HMwT0GVFKXskYWhZhC6qjM/s320/Woodworking+Random+18.jpg" width="240" />
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Link to product on Amazon: <a href="https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003YL486E/ref=as_li_ss_il?ie=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=li2&tag=woodknack-20&linkId=42d93c1a7154b92cd89510cc3d611f5c" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?_encoding=UTF8&ASIN=B003YL486E&Format=_SL160_&ID=AsinImage&MarketPlace=US&ServiceVersion=20070822&WS=1&tag=woodknack-20" /></a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=woodknack-20&l=li2&o=1&a=B003YL486E" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />
Wood Knackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12504530045704441678noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8752469508644512851.post-75542773132247601462016-03-17T16:22:00.001-04:002016-03-17T16:22:20.998-04:00Will Home Made Spindle Washers Cause Run Out? If you've been woodturning for awhile and use scroll chucks then you've probably had a chuck that seized on the threads and is difficult to remove. Grease or oil will not prevent stuck chuck but there are anti-seize compounds based on copper or graphite that can help. Another way is a plastic washer, called a spindle washer, that prevents the chuck from getting super tight. These washers can be purchased commercially or made in the shop.<br />
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I tend to pack rat jars and containers for various uses. One day a plastic jar lid caught my eye and I decided to make a spindle washer. After some experimentation I found that larger, thicker, lids like those from peanut butter, peanuts, mayonnaise, etc. made better washers. Pass on any lids with writing or other decoration. My method is simple, drill a 1" hole in the center of the lid (use whatever size matches your spindle), mount it on the lathe held in place with a faceplate or chuck and use a parting tool to remove the outside rim. It doesn't have to be perfect. You can make them any size you want. Most of the time I can remove a chuck using only my hand, occasionally after a long turning session I need a little leverage but the washer still prevents the chuck from seizing up tight.<br />
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A common concern is that plastic lids are not made with any precision and will cause excessive run-out which expresses itself as vibration. I decided to test a homemade spindle washer and find out how much runout it introduced.<br />
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First I measured a washer using an iGaging digital caliper accurate to 0.001" and with a resolution of 0.0005". Now I don't remember from what kind of lid this washer was made, I've had it for more than a year. But measuring various points around the washer, the deviation was never more than 0.0005" so the total variation is withing 0.001" which I found quite impressive.<br />
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Next I chucked the largest Forstner bit I own into my Nova G3 and tested runout using a dial indicator against the shank. The results were surprising. The very first test was after turning a handle for a beater chisel and I did not clean the threads beforehand, consequently it had the greatest runout of any test. Really, that test should be thrown out but I included it. The three remaining tests were done with clean threads.<br />
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The runout will be magnified as you move away from the center so if my test piece were 2" in diameter, the measured runout would be approximately doubled. Testing shows the washers introduce some runout but less than what the chuck itself introduces. So claims they introduce wobble are valid, however; the chuck introduces even more wobble so how much is acceptable to you. At the end of the day these are wood lathes and I'm not attempting to make precision parts so for me the washer is an acceptable trade off.Wood Knackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12504530045704441678noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8752469508644512851.post-44158659541671423792016-02-22T23:53:00.000-05:002016-02-22T23:53:33.145-05:00Restoring an old Superior buffer/grinder head part1No idea of the age but it's in good condition. Marked Superior, Made in USA. If anyone has information about these I'd love to know.<br />
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I ground down the casting seams and defects, filed, wire brushed, then sanded before shooting a primer coat of machine gray. My plan is a two tone paint job in turquoise and off white.<br />
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<br />Wood Knackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12504530045704441678noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8752469508644512851.post-33347339955007773952015-12-04T16:10:00.000-05:002016-09-08T18:23:13.000-04:00Experiments with acoustic horns as mobile device amplifiersBefore jumping in I have to make it clear that horns are not amplifiers. If I don't, I'll get a bunch of messages enlightening me. But horns do make sound louder and when paired with cell phones are commonly called "passive amps", and even though that is a misnomer what else should we call them? "Phone horn" doesn't have a nice ring. "Impedance matching device for mobile audio electronics" sounds like the title of a patent application. What's the big deal and what's the difference between an amplifier and a horn? An amplifier adds energy to the system, it makes the speaker vibrate harder, moving more air, and increases sound output. Horns are different, they make speakers louder by making transfer from the relatively dense speaker to the relatively rare atmosphere more efficient. Sound travels easier through dense substances like water and less easy through gasses like air. The horn helps the sound energy transfer from one to the other and the result is louder music. If you'd like to hear a smart person explain it, click <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vcSc16tnVqk" target="_blank">HERE</a>.<br />
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My first ever "horn" was a piece of PVC pipe with a slot in the middle for my phone and the ends cut at an angle toward the listener. It sat on two feet to prevent it from rolling around. It worked "okay". I don't own it anymore and can't find a picture but you may have seen similar speaker stands, maybe with bamboo.<br />
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My second (and real) horn which I'm calling 1.0 is based on a design by <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pojJIMo8U2I" target="_blank">Dustin Penner</a>. What Dustin brought to the table is a easy to make flat horn from 3 pieces of wood. I made it smaller and changed the curves slightly but overall the result is impressive.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-X2INjOZgSnA/Vlp9Zl2DmzI/AAAAAAAAClo/tdj3NiXDuZM/s1600/web2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-X2INjOZgSnA/Vlp9Zl2DmzI/AAAAAAAAClo/tdj3NiXDuZM/s320/web2.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Horn 1.0</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Horn 1.0. Height is approximately 1 inch (25.4mm). It was made in 3 layers. </td></tr>
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<span style="font-size: large;"><b>Horn 2.0</b></span> is based on a folded horn design by <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/Folded-horn-passive-phone-speaker/" target="_blank">MXX on Instructables</a>. This style of horn is usually seen on bass heavy concert speakers and definitely has a warmer but slightly muddier, sound. The downside is this speaker is much more difficult to build than Penner's. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Horn 2.0</td></tr>
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<span style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: large;"><b>Horn 3.0</b></span> is a folded version of v. 1.0. If you are unfamiliar with folded horns, just imagine a trumpet with all it's turns. A horn doesn't need to be straight. 3.0 is much louder than the two previous versions. In my test, it was 12-14 decibels louder than the previous horn designs but the sound is also a bit harsh. To me it sounds like the small transistor radios that were popular in the 60's and 70's. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Horn 3.0, made in 5 layers and is approximately 1-7/8" tall (47.63mm)</td></tr>
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<br />Wood Knackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12504530045704441678noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8752469508644512851.post-84539695953495851512015-11-21T16:09:00.002-05:002015-11-21T16:22:02.310-05:00Walnut Trestle Sewing Table<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitdOzgLcTRs9d5wumNLrghOxT0VXltvjMsDV7fWCGESqgHlAHQaOsa4p_4ofBZ76TwUy-Vat_47lEfy9j7gWX5S2cMvxAXrfNAX_KCzptjLcoZv9tBO4acOenq4SVTnkXpyz1sUBFYYlQ/s1600/walnut+table+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitdOzgLcTRs9d5wumNLrghOxT0VXltvjMsDV7fWCGESqgHlAHQaOsa4p_4ofBZ76TwUy-Vat_47lEfy9j7gWX5S2cMvxAXrfNAX_KCzptjLcoZv9tBO4acOenq4SVTnkXpyz1sUBFYYlQ/s320/walnut+table+1.jpg" width="228" /></a>Inspired by an 1840-ish Shaker table originally made in Harvard. I redrew this full scale from a sketch in Shea's "Making Authentic Shaker Furniture" and created full size patterns for the feet and legs. The leg tenons extend all the way through the feet. The feet each have half a mortise which makes construction much simpler. The feet join together and are pinned to the leg. The leg, stretcher, and battens all interlock. The top is attached with screws in elongated slots.<br />
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<br />Wood Knackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12504530045704441678noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8752469508644512851.post-34797643175992803942015-11-01T23:45:00.000-05:002016-07-27T00:34:43.928-04:00Refurbishing a Delta Homecraft Lathe HeadstockI recently purchased just the headstock for a Delta Homecraft Lathe. Delta sold different models of lathes with this same or very similar headstock from the early 30's until the mid-50's so I don't know when specifically this headstock was sold.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Before and After</td></tr>
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I stripped the headstock down completely, cleaned and looked at every part. The Timken tapered roller bearings <a href="http://amzn.to/2a3HqQO" target="_blank">(1)</a> & <a href="http://amzn.to/2a3Gb4j" target="_blank">(2)</a> are in excellent condition and did not need replacement. The spindle threads had some minor damage which I repaired with a needle file. </div>
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Unfortunately the indexing pin point was damaged sometime in the past but is still usable. </div>
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Since I was down to bare metal I filed the casting seams fairly smooth</div>
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And repainted with <a href="http://amzn.to/2a3G1tJ" target="_blank">Rustoleum Dark Machine Grey</a>.</div>
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One little mishap during the process, the badge was damaged. </div>
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Now what to do with it? My original plan was to make a bowl lathe / disc sander. I might still do that or might end up reselling it. </div>
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Wood Knackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12504530045704441678noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8752469508644512851.post-88013851350612912182015-10-17T09:00:00.000-04:002016-07-27T00:55:59.736-04:00Nova G3 vs. Nova Precision Midi lathe chucksI've been using a <a href="http://amzn.to/2a3GNXG" target="_blank">Nova Midi chuck</a> but wanted an upgrade. So when I spied an open box <a href="http://amzn.to/2acIYYy" target="_blank">G3</a> on Amazon Warehouse with 2 sets of jaws for $124 shipped, I bit. The <a href="http://amzn.to/2adEOml" target="_blank">G3</a> was supposed to be direct threaded for 1x8 threads but instead mine was threaded for 1-1/4x8. No problem, I ring Amazon on the blower (opened a chat with customer service) and told them I would keep it if they gave me credit to buy the proper insert. No problem says Amazon and within 2 days my insert had arrived.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">G3 (left) and Precision Midi (right)</td></tr>
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The Midi was purchased used and came with 2" and 1" jaws, a woodworm screw, allen keys, and tommy bars for around $50; not a bad deal. The <a href="http://amzn.to/2ap8H2Y" target="_blank">G3</a> also came with 2" and 1" jaws, a woodworm screw, allen keys, and the wrench doohickey; for a little less than $124. <strike>My lathe is still not 100% operational so I haven't turned with the G3 yet so this is not a proper review although I don't believe a review is really necessary.</strike> [Update: I have used the G3 a good bit and it performs equal to the Midi although I prefer it since I can scroll the jaws one handed.] The G3 is among the most popular lathe chucks sold and Teknatool makes high quality chucks. What I am doing is comparing size and heft of the two chucks since the G3 looks considerably bigger so you'd expect it to be beefier, but is it?<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">G3 (left) and Precision Midi (right)</td></tr>
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So in about every way, the G3 dwarfs the Midi so you'd expect it to be a heavier duty chuck. But as you can see in the pictures above, the G3 is mostly hollow. Placed on the scale, the G3 weighs in at 55 oz., or 1.56 kg.; the Midi weighs 53 oz. or 1.50 kg. The 2 oz. difference is the G3 has a threaded insert, the Midi is direct threaded for 1x8. They are essentially the same weight.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Precision Midi</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nova G3</td></tr>
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One advantage the Midi has over the G3, and it's pretty significant to owners of gap bed lathes, is that being shorter it allows more room for turning platters. The G3 is so long it renders the gap on my Delta 46-111 useless. Of course the main advantage of the G3 and why I wanted to upgrade was that you can open or close the jaws one handed while using the other hand to steady the wood blank or bowl. The Midi chuck requires 3 hands unless your lathe comes with a spindle lock. So was the G3 really an upgrade? It's sounding less and less so, but the G3 also has set screws on the spindle threads so it can be reversed. The Midi has no set screws and if you reversed the lathe it would spin itself right off the spindle.<br />
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Amazon affiliate links:<br />
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<a href="https://www.amazon.com/NOVA-48111-1-Inch-Precision-Turning/dp/B0064JJ4NK/ref=as_li_ss_il?ie=UTF8&qid=1469594482&sr=8-1&keywords=nova+midi+chuck&linkCode=li2&tag=woodknack-20&linkId=2f5f7f4ea20a87943aa8fc0652895473" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?_encoding=UTF8&ASIN=B0064JJ4NK&Format=_SL160_&ID=AsinImage&MarketPlace=US&ServiceVersion=20070822&WS=1&tag=woodknack-20" ></a><img src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=woodknack-20&l=li2&o=1&a=B0064JJ4NK" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;" />
<a href="https://www.amazon.com/NOVA-48232-Reversible-Turning-Chuck/dp/B0074HJ1V6/ref=as_li_ss_il?ie=UTF8&qid=1469594482&sr=8-2&keywords=nova+midi+chuck&linkCode=li3&tag=woodknack-20&linkId=e2809646cf7067f4311d1d55b9a0df06" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="//ws-na.amazon-adsystem.com/widgets/q?_encoding=UTF8&ASIN=B0074HJ1V6&Format=_SL250_&ID=AsinImage&MarketPlace=US&ServiceVersion=20070822&WS=1&tag=woodknack-20" ></a><img src="https://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=woodknack-20&l=li3&o=1&a=B0074HJ1V6" width="1" height="1" border="0" alt="" style="border:none !important; margin:0px !important;" />
Wood Knackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12504530045704441678noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8752469508644512851.post-24629564513281917892015-10-14T01:05:00.000-04:002015-10-14T01:05:03.386-04:00Simple Carpenter Bee TrapMy shop has been infested with carpenter bees this year and recently I learned how to make a simple trap. Carpenter bees, or wood bees, like to find little crevices and holes in which they nest. My trap is a simple 2x4 cut off with 1/2" holes drilled to a central chamber that leads to a glass jar. Hopefully the bees will be lured into the wood then crawl toward the light and become trapped. We shall see. I'll post an update in a few weeks whether the trap worked or not.<br />
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<br />Wood Knackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12504530045704441678noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8752469508644512851.post-54087671495478151822015-09-29T22:41:00.000-04:002015-09-29T22:41:16.983-04:00Rockwell Delta 46-111 Lathe, Part 4: Remote Control PendentA long overdue update. The lathe has been repainted, reassembled, the variable speed motor installed, and I've began working on a remote control pendant like those found on Robust or Vicmarc lathes.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">current status of the remote</td></tr>
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Treadmill motors have a soft start feature so the treadmill must always start at the slowest possible speed, a good safety feature in a treadmill but not desirable in a lathe. Reportedly you can bypass the softstart feature on an mc-60 controller (most common type) by switching the wiper on the potentiometer. Unfortunately I am not using an mc-60 controller and switching any of the potentiometer wires individually does not stop the motor. As time goes on I will experiment with switching multiple wires at once and report back. As it sits now, the speed control works just fine but the little on/off switch does diddly squat. There is a main power switch on the lathe stand for cutting power to everything.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">GE PWM speed controller</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dell powerbrick repurposed as a remote control</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Switching the center wire to stop/start the motor, an idea that did not work.</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Non functioning power toggle and perfectly functioning potentiometer.</td></tr>
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<br />Wood Knackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12504530045704441678noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8752469508644512851.post-85623936999497312192015-09-06T21:35:00.002-04:002015-09-08T14:03:38.473-04:00Making a saw blade knife<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Saw blade knife with padauk handle.</td></tr>
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I made this knife from a circular saw blade. There is an internet myth that claims circular saw blades are made from low carbon or mild steel, or just junk steel, nothing could be further from the truth. Saw blades spin at over 3,500 rotations per minute and endure significant stress while cutting wood, the steel must be high quality and very tough. Unfortunately blade makers are not very forth coming with what steel they use and the resulting speculation breeds all sorts of rumor. Many people believe these blades are made of L6, a common tool steel known for it's toughness and impact resistance. A few have sent blades for metallurgical analysis and the results confirm an alloy that is very similar to L6. Still there are a number of people who for whatever reason insist these blades are garbage steel. I'm not a metallurgist and can't say what steel is in any particular saw blade but neither can anyone else who isn't the manufacturer of that blade. What I can say is that many people have made knives from circular saw blades and in testing those knives are very tough and hold an edge well. If you need a disclaimer, here it is: cheap things are cheaply made. I believe that if you use a good quality blade from a respected manufacturer then you're likely to get good steel but this is recycling, there are no guarantees. </div>
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<tr align="left"><td class="tr-caption">Step one was cutting the rough shape from an old Delta saw blade using a 10" cut off wheel in a chop saw. This steel is hardened and cuts very slowly. It is so hard near the tips where the carbide is brazed that I had to break it, even the cut off wheel wouldn't cut it. Usually you will see knives made from annealed (softened) steel which is later hardened then tempered. Since this steel is already hardened and I do not have proper heat treat equipment, I chose to keep the factory heat treat and just be careful to keep the blade cool while cutting and grinding; that meant lots of stopping and waiting.</td></tr>
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<tr align="left"><td class="tr-caption">The handle material is padauk, a South American hardwood often used for xylophone keys. It is hard and somewhat oily. The red will "bleed" out when the wood is wetted, especially with any kind of solvent. Normally the handle would be attached with pins but this steel is too hard to drill with normal drill bits so I have to rely on epoxy.</td></tr>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6lDd-GYEfEc/Ve8iGJ_p8uI/AAAAAAAACfw/_MwKfUwwaGk/s1600/Knife%2BGrinding%2B01%2B1503x847.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6lDd-GYEfEc/Ve8iGJ_p8uI/AAAAAAAACfw/_MwKfUwwaGk/s400/Knife%2BGrinding%2B01%2B1503x847.jpg" title="" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The handle scales clamped while the epoxy hardens.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-R-H07APZXXE/VeziOP6B7fI/AAAAAAAACeQ/NE8U4YGCCrQ/s1600/Knife_009%2B1064x600.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="225" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-R-H07APZXXE/VeziOP6B7fI/AAAAAAAACeQ/NE8U4YGCCrQ/s400/Knife_009%2B1064x600.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr align="left"><td class="tr-caption">The handle was shaped with disc and spindle sanders, then hand sanded with 120, 150, 220, 320, & 400 grit sandpaper. Sorry, no pics of the sanding. </td></tr>
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<tr align="left"><td class="tr-caption">The finish is shellac and wax. Not an especially good choice for a knife but the padauk is tough wood and would be fine without a finish but the shellac stops the red from bleeding. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top down shot of the handle.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No trouble with a Roma, fresh from the garden.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">See through radishes!</td></tr>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RPXZ9AMUp0c/VeziPzV62MI/AAAAAAAACfE/ptGaRIFeEM0/s1600/Knife_017%2B573x1018.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-RPXZ9AMUp0c/VeziPzV62MI/AAAAAAAACfE/ptGaRIFeEM0/s640/Knife_017%2B573x1018.jpg" title="" width="360" /></a></div>
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<br />Wood Knackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12504530045704441678noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8752469508644512851.post-43493125447894600422015-06-24T07:30:00.000-04:002015-06-24T07:30:02.743-04:00Grumman SP145 - Part 2: Choosing new floor materialI researched a lot of options for new floor material which I will list along with pros and cons and maybe this will be of interest to someone facing the same decision.<br />
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When dealing with aluminum boats you should beware <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion" target="_blank">galvanic reactions</a> which can occur with dissimilar metals + an electrolyte. Examples would be steel screws into aluminum + salt water, or pressure treated wood (copper + salt) against aluminum.<br />
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<b>Plywood </b>- The original manufacturer used plywood, stainless steel screws and carpet. Occasional moisture or splashes will not hurt the plywood but my boat lives outside. Carpet would only make things worse by trapping moisture.<br />
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<b>Painted Plywood</b> - Painting is a good option, looks pretty good and lasts for years. The painted plywood the previous owner used held up for over six years with no sign of deterioration.<br />
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<b>Epoxy over plywood</b> - A excellent option that is expensive and time consuming but very long lasting.<br />
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<b>Pressure treated plywood or decking</b> - Pressure treated wood in contact with aluminum will cause galvanic corrosion because of the copper and salts used to treat the wood. The best advice is to allow the wood to dry well, preferably for some months, before installing. This is because pressure treated lumber has fairly high moisture content when you buy it and that additional moisture will only accelerate the galvanic corrosion. On top of that, you either have to seal the plywood or seal the aluminum so they can never come into contact.<br />
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There are new treated plywoods rated for aluminum contact but if you read the fine print that is only under dry conditions. They still contain copper and salts and will cause galvanic corrosion if they get wet.<br />
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Marine grade plywood is just pressure treated plywood that costs twice as much. There are other options such as MDO which is very heavy and very expensive.<br />
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<b>Composite decking</b> - Seems like an ideal floor material as it doesn't corrode aluminum and often comes with 15-20 year warranty. But it's also very heavy, gets very hot in direct sun, expands and contracts more than wood, and is relatively expensive.<br />
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<b>Cedar/redwood/cypress or other rot resistant wood</b> - Unfortunately the same oils that provide rot resistance also tend to corrode aluminum. But the plus side is that nothing beats real wood in appearance.<br />
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There are serious pros and cons to every flooring option. In the end I chose Eastern red cedar because it's extremely rot resistant, beautiful, plentiful and inexpensive in my area. I tried to use nothing but red heartwood (white sapwood is not rot resistant). A shot of spray paint over the aluminum will hopefully be enough to prevent corrosion. For fasteners I stuck with stainless steel. I figure if the manufacturer chose stainless who am I to second guess them.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBoeZWXsREDCJA_I2PmOe4gXdBGDuCyvHjJUF6WM_vh0SZ7GQbbeOj726mhruxxbGWueHAFdApE-kuId5rudijy-xD1VyM9CHVkugIx2Ht_phZgK5oMTDglIlkfZ4Q27oBorjSGS_x0eU/s1600/Grumman+10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBoeZWXsREDCJA_I2PmOe4gXdBGDuCyvHjJUF6WM_vh0SZ7GQbbeOj726mhruxxbGWueHAFdApE-kuId5rudijy-xD1VyM9CHVkugIx2Ht_phZgK5oMTDglIlkfZ4Q27oBorjSGS_x0eU/s640/Grumman+10.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Freshly planed ERC. I wish it stayed this color.</td></tr>
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<br />Wood Knackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12504530045704441678noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8752469508644512851.post-27694842373020134632015-06-22T13:25:00.002-04:002015-06-22T13:25:33.492-04:00Grumman SP145 - Part 1: Nasty old floorMy aluminum boat is in dire need of a new floor. The original floor was carpeted plywood which the previous owner covered with painted plywood. The painted ply held up well but the original floor was turning to dust so it all needed to come out.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tGQH75tvIG0/VYhB2JomMNI/AAAAAAAACaQ/894EtLL96hw/s1600/Grumman%2B3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tGQH75tvIG0/VYhB2JomMNI/AAAAAAAACaQ/894EtLL96hw/s1600/Grumman%2B3.jpg" /></a></div>
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The above pic is after I removed the painted plywood, what you see is the original carpeted floor or what remains of it.<br />
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The hull bracing and bait well were fastened with aluminum blind rivets so removal was just a matter of drilling out the center and punching them through.</div>
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Clean and ready for a new floor. </div>
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<br />Wood Knackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12504530045704441678noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8752469508644512851.post-70982176192349955452015-05-07T11:30:00.000-04:002015-05-07T11:30:01.938-04:00Swing Arm Task Lamp<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
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Swing Arm Lamp</h2>
<a href="http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/2014/05/swinging-articulated-lamp.html" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" target="_blank"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eE7tYp2z1ds/VUovDLdyyhI/AAAAAAAACSE/O2XQRop92jw/s1600/swing%2Barm%2Blamp_web%2B12.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small; text-align: start;">Months back I made this articulated arm lamp but the arms were too narrow and didn't develop enough friction to hold the lamp without drooping over time.</span></td></tr>
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I made this swing arm lamp as an improvement. It reuses parts of the original hinge with a longer central pivot.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-s6jEKOIQnDU/VUow5Fumu0I/AAAAAAAACSU/zYgsIpQzpxs/s1600/swing%2Barm%2Blamp_web%2B10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-s6jEKOIQnDU/VUow5Fumu0I/AAAAAAAACSU/zYgsIpQzpxs/s1600/swing%2Barm%2Blamp_web%2B10.jpg" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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The bottom arm has a dowel that engages one of three notches in the upper arm. The notches are only about 3/8" apart but allow approximately 20" vertical movement.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lowest position</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Middle position</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">High position</td></tr>
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When swung left it lights up my drill press table. When swung right it sets above my lathe's headstock.<br />
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Here is a free plan. You will need to adapt it to whatever lamp you have. </div>
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Wood Knackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12504530045704441678noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8752469508644512851.post-80224649894184165712015-05-01T11:30:00.000-04:002015-09-29T14:04:41.893-04:00Rockwell Delta 46-111 Lathe, Part 3: Variable SpeedThis will be my 2nd lathe converted to variable speed.<br />
[edit; for some reason Blogger deleted the photos so I have edited this blog with updated info and pics.] <br />
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This is the lathe, a Rockwell 46-111, circa 1974. Which I have finished repainting. You can read more about the lathe in previous blog posts.<br />
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This is the motor: 1hp at 90 VDC. Big improvement over the 1/2hp original motor. It's from a popular brand of treadmill. Originally it had a digital control panel and extra boards but I eliminated all that and attached a 5k linear taper potentiometer from Radio Shack. The treadmill cost me $30. I listed the control panel on ebay and it sold within hours for $35, plus $25 for the scrap metal and I came out ahead.<br />
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Two things left to do.<br />
<b>[edit; I switched to a motor with a V pulley so everything from here down was unnecessary.]</b></div>
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<li>Make a new motor mount or modify the original. Shouldn't be difficult.</li>
<li>The DC motor has a flat pulley but the lathe has V pulleys.</li>
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-S0jRxWCn5_0/VTcheSS9SpI/AAAAAAAACOY/fKlVfmGwjdc/s1600/46-111_web%2B6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-S0jRxWCn5_0/VTcheSS9SpI/AAAAAAAACOY/fKlVfmGwjdc/s320/46-111_web%2B6.jpg" title="" width="200" /></a></div>
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The most common solution is removing the flywheel and attaching a V pulley. I could do that but then I lose the torque benefit of the flywheel and extra torque is always welcome on a lathe. </div>
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<a href="http://mkctools.com/10ertreadmillbase.htm" target="_blank">This chap had a great solution</a>. Unfortunately I do not have a metal lathe and at 1-1/8" dia the flat pulley on mine is too small to accommodate a V belt. </div>
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<a href="http://mkctools.com/mvc-770f.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://mkctools.com/mvc-770f.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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So I'm thinking I will make a 2nd pulley that will slide over the flat pulley. A 2" pulley would put me in the range of 3500 RPM at the spindle. I'll soon let you know how well it works.</div>
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Wood Knackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12504530045704441678noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8752469508644512851.post-60099677507504461542015-04-29T13:00:00.001-04:002015-04-29T13:00:08.800-04:00Rockwell Delta 46-111 Lathe, Part 2: Paint<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tUAibmo-HPk/VTckhG93GKI/AAAAAAAACOg/ti8f8FA9YrM/s1600/46-111_web%2B9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tUAibmo-HPk/VTckhG93GKI/AAAAAAAACOg/ti8f8FA9YrM/s1600/46-111_web%2B9.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Indexing pin and tail stock levers that originally were bare metal but I painted them black to protect against rust and improve appearance.</td></tr>
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Anything I could fit in a toaster oven was baked at approximately 150 degrees Fahrenheit for two hours. Not sure of the exact temperature but you could touch the parts with only mild discomfort. The paint instructions said not to exceed 190 degrees.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aSfR-nQfzJI/VTckhgOTsUI/AAAAAAAACOo/1xsIu0c9vRo/s1600/46-111_web%2B10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-aSfR-nQfzJI/VTckhgOTsUI/AAAAAAAACOo/1xsIu0c9vRo/s1600/46-111_web%2B10.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Freshly repainted tool rest and banjo. The color darkens when dry.</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-G57uGForDPg/VTckhFOyR6I/AAAAAAAACOk/Y7BbZEtQUF4/s1600/46-111_web%2B11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-G57uGForDPg/VTckhFOyR6I/AAAAAAAACOk/Y7BbZEtQUF4/s1600/46-111_web%2B11.jpg" height="480" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Repainted bed. Same color as tool rest but the paint has dried for a few days, and shop lighting is less intense.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SI5gQXmde6w/VTyN0OiTYtI/AAAAAAAACQQ/CAAfGpr9Haw/s1600/46-111_web%2B18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SI5gQXmde6w/VTyN0OiTYtI/AAAAAAAACQQ/CAAfGpr9Haw/s1600/46-111_web%2B18.jpg" height="640" width="480" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Better than a new dog. That logo pops!</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cbKs_juysCE/VTyN0MsLN3I/AAAAAAAACQU/0i60_gwvNVo/s1600/46-111_web%2B17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cbKs_juysCE/VTyN0MsLN3I/AAAAAAAACQU/0i60_gwvNVo/s1600/46-111_web%2B17.jpg" height="400" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tail stock back together with nice new paint, looks better than 1974.<br />
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Next steps are reassembly and conversion to variable speed.</h3>
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Wood Knackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12504530045704441678noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8752469508644512851.post-55222639242575866442015-04-26T08:30:00.000-04:002015-04-26T08:30:00.405-04:00Goodell Pratt bench lathe, Part 4: reproduction knobMy first try at a reproducing the missing tool rest knob. I goofed and made the diameter a bit too small but otherwise it looks pretty good. I'll make another but this was good for getting for the dimensions and general shape. We'll call it proof of concept.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hGavUYpDjJQ/VTyDN6Bc4OI/AAAAAAAACPI/wOoc9iK7m90/s1600/GP125%2Bknob-12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hGavUYpDjJQ/VTyDN6Bc4OI/AAAAAAAACPI/wOoc9iK7m90/s1600/GP125%2Bknob-12.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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I started by gluing up scraps of maple and beech. Beech is on the outside right.<br />
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lXqSiLns0qs/VTyDkQJPQrI/AAAAAAAACPQ/GD8RioFUYgg/s1600/GP125%2Bknob-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lXqSiLns0qs/VTyDkQJPQrI/AAAAAAAACPQ/GD8RioFUYgg/s1600/GP125%2Bknob-2.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></div>
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I always forget to take pictures but I measured the original with calipers, transferred that measurement to the wood blank using the same calipers and a parting tool, then blended the curves.<br />
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y5mbIQ0s8wc/VTyEBpJsBPI/AAAAAAAACPY/dejFGjcdYsk/s1600/GP125%2Bknob-5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y5mbIQ0s8wc/VTyEBpJsBPI/AAAAAAAACPY/dejFGjcdYsk/s1600/GP125%2Bknob-5.jpg" height="358" width="640" /></a></div>
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Before cutting to final size, I drilled a 3/8" hole through the center and installed a 1/4-20 threaded insert. I also marked off 12 equal divisions around the perimeter using the indexing wheel of my lathe then ground 12 grooves using a Dremel. I didn't bother sanding out the burn marks because this will be painted black eventually.<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4-axFqiL8gY/VTyEorxwjDI/AAAAAAAACPg/hdUaD0-kYEo/s1600/GP125%2Bknob-7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4-axFqiL8gY/VTyEorxwjDI/AAAAAAAACPg/hdUaD0-kYEo/s1600/GP125%2Bknob-7.jpg" height="640" width="640" /></a></div>
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After friction polish (shellac/oil). Not shown here but I also seated the threaded insert a little deeper.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4vcfaZEWOBXN__ucAPb0GC4sLZ5yZcX6UfrS1S_7sq2N1kdw5NEHltVwIadLcHRsmcXb_TAWl1APKm61w9D6xHAA1itW4isAsrw7jXBONv2IQihjkJ4lZ1sRKnHPzThJiwcCwUcWVQ_s/s1600/GP125+knob-9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4vcfaZEWOBXN__ucAPb0GC4sLZ5yZcX6UfrS1S_7sq2N1kdw5NEHltVwIadLcHRsmcXb_TAWl1APKm61w9D6xHAA1itW4isAsrw7jXBONv2IQihjkJ4lZ1sRKnHPzThJiwcCwUcWVQ_s/s1600/GP125+knob-9.jpg" height="640" width="640" /></a></div>
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Comparison with original:<br />
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<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mg_7k8tRd9E/VTyFz2LDhYI/AAAAAAAACPw/Kx4rbli7-Mk/s1600/GP125%2Bknob-10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mg_7k8tRd9E/VTyFz2LDhYI/AAAAAAAACPw/Kx4rbli7-Mk/s1600/GP125%2Bknob-10.jpg" height="640" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JB8FzTQeVqM/VTyF0KDHIoI/AAAAAAAACP4/Zc__ybELwQs/s1600/GP125%2Bknob-11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JB8FzTQeVqM/VTyF0KDHIoI/AAAAAAAACP4/Zc__ybELwQs/s1600/GP125%2Bknob-11.jpg" height="358" width="640" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE7UKLVK_WP6NGQdSV-TvuB5UBK4J4mYQW7pHb1m9Ot5HjXdUKvFV77zocbMp2tNuA0GMBTRsDqljuxsaszylWZEAC9P4Nd0Tdx8UECVMS7nivoaumxGaET2FcPB8FQ0fwpDhUBN_7SqE/s1600/GP125+knob-13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE7UKLVK_WP6NGQdSV-TvuB5UBK4J4mYQW7pHb1m9Ot5HjXdUKvFV77zocbMp2tNuA0GMBTRsDqljuxsaszylWZEAC9P4Nd0Tdx8UECVMS7nivoaumxGaET2FcPB8FQ0fwpDhUBN_7SqE/s1600/GP125+knob-13.jpg" height="640" width="640" /></a></div>
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<br />Wood Knackhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12504530045704441678noreply@blogger.com0